1972 Evinrude Bobcat SS HELP!

[r***@usa.com]

I picked this sled up a few weeks ago and just got around to playing
with it yesterday. After flushing the old gas out of it, she starts
up and runs real nice. Noisey as all hell but what do you expect with
the carb between your legs like that.

She ran around the yard twice, then started bogging in the snow and
smoking the belt. I took the belt guard off and the hood off and the
belt is toasted,a ndit was a John Deere belt. My first question is
can anybody point me to a real cross reference to the belt this puppy
wants? I am reluctent to put the same belt number back in it, as I
have not seen it work (well) with that belt.

My second question is on the belt pully that is behind the guard,
there is a ring of metal that is loose and freewheeling between the
two sides of the pully. I can see no place for it to be attached to.
Am I missing a part or parts or is that normal? The knob to keep the
clutch from engauging still works as it should, so I don't think it
has anything to do with that.

Any feedback would be helpful.

[Me]

dont know if it helps but the original belt number is 405182. I guess thats
an OMC part number.
I was on Dennis kirk.com the other day, and they had a belt for my skimmer.
Worth a shot. By the way the distance between your shaft centers is
11 3/4 inches, the skimmer is 10 1/2 so i don know if one owuld fit the
other, I doubt it.
Thats all I got.
I just got part of an old manual off a guy today so if you need any other
help...mail me./
Justin

Post by r***@usa.com
I picked this sled up a few weeks ago and just got around to playing
with it yesterday. After flushing the old gas out of it, she starts
up and runs real nice. Noisey as all hell but what do you expect with
the carb between your legs like that.
She ran around the yard twice, then started bogging in the snow and
smoking the belt. I took the belt guard off and the hood off and the
belt is toasted,a ndit was a John Deere belt. My first question is
can anybody point me to a real cross reference to the belt this puppy
wants? I am reluctent to put the same belt number back in it, as I
have not seen it work (well) with that belt.
My second question is on the belt pully that is behind the guard,
there is a ring of metal that is loose and freewheeling between the
two sides of the pully. I can see no place for it to be attached to.
Am I missing a part or parts or is that normal? The knob to keep the
clutch from engauging still works as it should, so I don't think it
has anything to do with that.
Any feedback would be helpful.

[r***@usa.com]

Cool, I will do a search on that belt number and also see if it si the
same as the number on the JD belt that was on it.

If you have the part of the manual with the belt, does it give any
insight as to what that freewheeling ring between the two sides of the
pully is for?

rfi


On Tue, 08 Feb 2005 10:46:12 GMT, "Me"

Post by Me
dont know if it helps but the original belt number is 405182. I guess thats
an OMC part number.
I was on Dennis kirk.com the other day, and they had a belt for my skimmer.
Worth a shot. By the way the distance between your shaft centers is
11 3/4 inches, the skimmer is 10 1/2 so i don know if one owuld fit the
other, I doubt it.
Thats all I got.
I just got part of an old manual off a guy today so if you need any other
help...mail me./
Justin

[Me]

from your description I would say its the bearing. Is it on theclutch on the
engine or the other one? If its the engine clutch (primary) its the bearing.
This allows the engine to idle without the clutch shaft wearing into the
belt. If there were no bearing, whenever you were idling, that shaft would
be spinning and rubbing the belt. After a little while there'd be no more
belt.

Post by r***@usa.com
Cool, I will do a search on that belt number and also see if it si the
same as the number on the JD belt that was on it.
If you have the part of the manual with the belt, does it give any
insight as to what that freewheeling ring between the two sides of the
pully is for?
rfi
On Tue, 08 Feb 2005 10:46:12 GMT, "Me"

Post by Me
dont know if it helps but the original belt number is 405182. I guess thats
an OMC part number.
I was on Dennis kirk.com the other day, and they had a belt for my skimmer.
Worth a shot. By the way the distance between your shaft centers is
11 3/4 inches, the skimmer is 10 1/2 so i don know if one owuld fit the
other, I doubt it.
Thats all I got.
I just got part of an old manual off a guy today so if you need any other
help...mail me./
Justin

[s***@dogod.com]

Thanks to the pointer to the belt at denniskirk.com. I did not know
which of the modles I have but as luck would have it, they all used
the same belt. They had 3 different ones, from $17 to $36. I went
with the $17 nad if it holds up the rest of this winter, I will
replace it with a better one next season.

I have at least one more Q for you if you don't mind. This one is
kind of a dumb one, but what do they recomend for the 2 cycle mix
ratio? The guy I bought it from thought the high performance engine
used 24:1 or 32:1. I have been using a liberally mixed 32:1 as my
buddy uses that in his old MF Ski Whiz and we tend to share gas cans.
The guy I bought it from was running it on 32:1 as well, he said he
ran everything on that mixture.

If the old beast really wants 24:1 I can procure another gas can for
it.

Thannks again for the pointer to the belt!


On Tue, 08 Feb 2005 21:22:00 GMT, "Me"

Post by Me
from your description I would say its the bearing. Is it on theclutch on the
engine or the other one? If its the engine clutch (primary) its the bearing.
This allows the engine to idle without the clutch shaft wearing into the
belt. If there were no bearing, whenever you were idling, that shaft would
be spinning and rubbing the belt. After a little while there'd be no more
belt.

Post by r***@usa.com
Cool, I will do a search on that belt number and also see if it si the
same as the number on the JD belt that was on it.
If you have the part of the manual with the belt, does it give any
insight as to what that freewheeling ring between the two sides of the
pully is for?
rfi
On Tue, 08 Feb 2005 10:46:12 GMT, "Me"

Post by Me
dont know if it helps but the original belt number is 405182. I guess

thats

Post by r***@usa.com

Post by Me
an OMC part number.
I was on Dennis kirk.com the other day, and they had a belt for my

skimmer.

Post by r***@usa.com

Post by Me
Worth a shot. By the way the distance between your shaft centers is
11 3/4 inches, the skimmer is 10 1/2 so i don know if one owuld fit the
other, I doubt it.
Thats all I got.
I just got part of an old manual off a guy today so if you need any other
help...mail me./
Justin

[Me]

What is your sled? Is it the opposed engine, rotary, or twin?
Let me know and I'll have a look.
I mix my 400 Skimmer(twin) at 40:1

Justin

Post by s***@dogod.com
Thanks to the pointer to the belt at denniskirk.com. I did not know
which of the modles I have but as luck would have it, they all used
the same belt. They had 3 different ones, from $17 to $36. I went
with the $17 nad if it holds up the rest of this winter, I will
replace it with a better one next season.
I have at least one more Q for you if you don't mind. This one is
kind of a dumb one, but what do they recomend for the 2 cycle mix
ratio? The guy I bought it from thought the high performance engine
used 24:1 or 32:1. I have been using a liberally mixed 32:1 as my
buddy uses that in his old MF Ski Whiz and we tend to share gas cans.
The guy I bought it from was running it on 32:1 as well, he said he
ran everything on that mixture.
If the old beast really wants 24:1 I can procure another gas can for
it.
Thannks again for the pointer to the belt!
On Tue, 08 Feb 2005 21:22:00 GMT, "Me"

Post by Me
from your description I would say its the bearing. Is it on theclutch on the
engine or the other one? If its the engine clutch (primary) its the bearing.
This allows the engine to idle without the clutch shaft wearing into the
belt. If there were no bearing, whenever you were idling, that shaft would
be spinning and rubbing the belt. After a little while there'd be no more
belt.

Post by r***@usa.com
Cool, I will do a search on that belt number and also see if it si the
same as the number on the JD belt that was on it.
If you have the part of the manual with the belt, does it give any
insight as to what that freewheeling ring between the two sides of the
pully is for?
rfi
On Tue, 08 Feb 2005 10:46:12 GMT, "Me"

Post by Me
dont know if it helps but the original belt number is 405182. I guess

thats

Post by r***@usa.com

Post by Me
an OMC part number.
I was on Dennis kirk.com the other day, and they had a belt for my

skimmer.

Post by r***@usa.com

Post by Me
Worth a shot. By the way the distance between your shaft centers is
11 3/4 inches, the skimmer is 10 1/2 so i don know if one owuld fit the
other, I doubt it.
Thats all I got.
I just got part of an old manual off a guy today so if you need any other
help...mail me./
Justin

[Me]

Now that I've got a bit of time I'll quote from this book to answer your
question.

"The engine is lubricated by oil mixed with the fuel. Correct fuel ratio is
16:1 for 1965 and 1966 models or 24:1 for later OMC engines. On JLO and
Kohler engines, use 20:1 mixture."
That was from the 1965 to 1972 section.
Now from the engine section:

OMC Opposed Twin:
"The engine is lubricated by oil mixed with the fuel. Johnson or Evinrude
Snowmobile Oil or standard grade, SAE 30 automotive motor oil should be
used. Do not use inferior grade automotive oils or multiviscosity oil.
Outboard motor oil is not recommended. Use only good grade regular gasoline.
Recommended fuel/oil ratio was 16:1 in 1965 and 1966; and 24:1 in 1967
through 1972. In 1973 a 50:1 fuel/oil ratio is recommended ONLY if Johnson
or Evinrude 50:1 Snowmobile Oil is used. If other oils are used, mix at
standard 24:1 ratio..."

OMC Rotary Combustion:
"Engine is lubricated by oil mixed with the fuel. The recommended lubricant
is OMC Rotary Combustion Oil mixed at the ratio of 50:1 with a good grade
of regular Gasoline."

SO there you have it...straight from "The Book". The writer of the book is a
mystery, but I take it on good authority that he "had a clue" what he was
talking about..
I dont know if the better oils of today would allow a less oily mix or not.
Probably would, but given the availability of parts and such, isn't the
extra bit of oil worth it? I believe it is and I always mix my gas at 40:1
in my 76 400's even though it calls for only 50:1. Plugs are cheaper than
pistons, I always say.

Justin

Post by s***@dogod.com
Thanks to the pointer to the belt at denniskirk.com. I did not know
which of the modles I have but as luck would have it, they all used
the same belt. They had 3 different ones, from $17 to $36. I went
with the $17 nad if it holds up the rest of this winter, I will
replace it with a better one next season.
I have at least one more Q for you if you don't mind. This one is
kind of a dumb one, but what do they recomend for the 2 cycle mix
ratio? The guy I bought it from thought the high performance engine
used 24:1 or 32:1. I have been using a liberally mixed 32:1 as my
buddy uses that in his old MF Ski Whiz and we tend to share gas cans.
The guy I bought it from was running it on 32:1 as well, he said he
ran everything on that mixture.
If the old beast really wants 24:1 I can procure another gas can for
it.
Thannks again for the pointer to the belt!
On Tue, 08 Feb 2005 21:22:00 GMT, "Me"

Post by Me
from your description I would say its the bearing. Is it on theclutch on the
engine or the other one? If its the engine clutch (primary) its the bearing.
This allows the engine to idle without the clutch shaft wearing into the
belt. If there were no bearing, whenever you were idling, that shaft would
be spinning and rubbing the belt. After a little while there'd be no more
belt.

Post by r***@usa.com
Cool, I will do a search on that belt number and also see if it si the
same as the number on the JD belt that was on it.
If you have the part of the manual with the belt, does it give any
insight as to what that freewheeling ring between the two sides of the
pully is for?
rfi
On Tue, 08 Feb 2005 10:46:12 GMT, "Me"

Post by Me
dont know if it helps but the original belt number is 405182. I guess

thats

Post by r***@usa.com

Post by Me
an OMC part number.
I was on Dennis kirk.com the other day, and they had a belt for my

skimmer.

Post by r***@usa.com

Post by Me
Worth a shot. By the way the distance between your shaft centers is
11 3/4 inches, the skimmer is 10 1/2 so i don know if one owuld fit the
other, I doubt it.
Thats all I got.
I just got part of an old manual off a guy today so if you need any other
help...mail me./
Justin

[r***@usa.com]

I have the opposed twin "high performance" engine in mine. I am glad
I was not mixing it any thinner, as I agree with you. Plugs are a lot
less expensive then pistons. I have a case of old Suzuki 30 weight 2
cyccle oil. Someone was moving out of town and gifted it to me cause
i have an old GT-185 2 cycle twin bike I used to putt around on. I
have not ran a lot of gas through this yet. I will mix up some 20:1
or so tonight and fill the tank. I put about 2.5 gals. into it when I
got it, and the belt died shortly after that. I got the new belt on
last night but did not feel like dragging it out.. Perhaps this
weekend.

*Many* thanks for all of your typing. I really appriciate it, more so
cause I might have killed the thing going down the road I was on.


On Thu, 17 Feb 2005 19:42:34 GMT, "Me"

Post by Me
Now that I've got a bit of time I'll quote from this book to answer your
question.
"The engine is lubricated by oil mixed with the fuel. Correct fuel ratio is
16:1 for 1965 and 1966 models or 24:1 for later OMC engines. On JLO and
Kohler engines, use 20:1 mixture."
That was from the 1965 to 1972 section.
"The engine is lubricated by oil mixed with the fuel. Johnson or Evinrude
Snowmobile Oil or standard grade, SAE 30 automotive motor oil should be
used. Do not use inferior grade automotive oils or multiviscosity oil.
Outboard motor oil is not recommended. Use only good grade regular gasoline.
Recommended fuel/oil ratio was 16:1 in 1965 and 1966; and 24:1 in 1967
through 1972. In 1973 a 50:1 fuel/oil ratio is recommended ONLY if Johnson
or Evinrude 50:1 Snowmobile Oil is used. If other oils are used, mix at
standard 24:1 ratio..."
"Engine is lubricated by oil mixed with the fuel. The recommended lubricant
is OMC Rotary Combustion Oil mixed at the ratio of 50:1 with a good grade
of regular Gasoline."
SO there you have it...straight from "The Book". The writer of the book is a
mystery, but I take it on good authority that he "had a clue" what he was
talking about..
I dont know if the better oils of today would allow a less oily mix or not.
Probably would, but given the availability of parts and such, isn't the
extra bit of oil worth it? I believe it is and I always mix my gas at 40:1
in my 76 400's even though it calls for only 50:1. Plugs are cheaper than
pistons, I always say.
Justin

Post by s***@dogod.com
Thanks to the pointer to the belt at denniskirk.com. I did not know
which of the modles I have but as luck would have it, they all used
the same belt. They had 3 different ones, from $17 to $36. I went
with the $17 nad if it holds up the rest of this winter, I will
replace it with a better one next season.
I have at least one more Q for you if you don't mind. This one is
kind of a dumb one, but what do they recomend for the 2 cycle mix
ratio? The guy I bought it from thought the high performance engine
used 24:1 or 32:1. I have been using a liberally mixed 32:1 as my
buddy uses that in his old MF Ski Whiz and we tend to share gas cans.
The guy I bought it from was running it on 32:1 as well, he said he
ran everything on that mixture.
If the old beast really wants 24:1 I can procure another gas can for
it.
Thannks again for the pointer to the belt!
On Tue, 08 Feb 2005 21:22:00 GMT, "Me"

Post by Me
from your description I would say its the bearing. Is it on theclutch on

the

Post by s***@dogod.com

Post by Me
engine or the other one? If its the engine clutch (primary) its the

bearing.

Post by s***@dogod.com

Post by Me
This allows the engine to idle without the clutch shaft wearing into the
belt. If there were no bearing, whenever you were idling, that shaft

would

Post by s***@dogod.com

Post by Me
be spinning and rubbing the belt. After a little while there'd be no more
belt.

Post by r***@usa.com
Cool, I will do a search on that belt number and also see if it si the
same as the number on the JD belt that was on it.
If you have the part of the manual with the belt, does it give any
insight as to what that freewheeling ring between the two sides of the
pully is for?
rfi
On Tue, 08 Feb 2005 10:46:12 GMT, "Me"

Post by Me
dont know if it helps but the original belt number is 405182. I guess

thats

Post by r***@usa.com

Post by Me
an OMC part number.
I was on Dennis kirk.com the other day, and they had a belt for my

skimmer.

Post by r***@usa.com

Post by Me
Worth a shot. By the way the distance between your shaft centers is
11 3/4 inches, the skimmer is 10 1/2 so i don know if one owuld fit

the

Post by s***@dogod.com

Post by Me

Post by r***@usa.com

Post by Me
other, I doubt it.
Thats all I got.
I just got part of an old manual off a guy today so if you need any

other

Post by s***@dogod.com

Post by Me

Post by r***@usa.com

Post by Me
help...mail me./
Justin

[brian70]

If you want it to hold up well and run cooler use AMSOIL 100 to 1 mix and
run with it 100 to 1 it is the best time i have ever seen. ps.YES i said
100 to 1 and you can put that mix in any thing you want and it will run
20% cooler no fowling plugs more horsepower and better protection than
regular oil at 20 to 1 check out amsoil.com, i use to race sleds and used
it and it made my motor hold up forever